|
|
There's still hope for the Anacostia in spite of all the strikes against it
Past keeps cropping up along remote York River Water Trail
Watchdogs on the Water
Like an inverted tree with its roots gaining nourishment from the wetlands of Sussex and Kent counties in Delaware and Maryland's Dorchester County, the Nanticoke River flows through the lower Eastern Shore of Maryland and blends with the waters of Tangier Sound 50 meandering miles to the south.
One of the Chesapeake Bay's wildest and healthiest rivers, the Nanticoke drains more than 718,000 acres of forest, wetlands and farmland and provides outstanding habitat for many threatened plants and animals. In fact, it was named one of the Last Great Places by The Nature Conservancy as part of a national program to save these gems from human development and to protect rare and endangered plants and animals.
Writer Tom Horton, who grew up along the river and spent his youth exploring its many facets, said the Nanticoke has a special place among Chesapeake rivers. "It's very rare in the center of a large East Coast population to have a river left where you can paddle your canoe and run your skiff for three or four hours and 95 percent of that time see just woods or marsh and very little trace of development," he said. "I think it is more and more important in regions like this to have some places where you can get away into the countryside like it used to be. It's also quite important to still have some large connected segments of forest and marsh and water for wildlife."
According to the Nanticoke Watershed Alliance, the river is the most biologically diverse watershed on the Delmarva Peninsula. With more than 100 rare species in its environs, it has the northernmost stands of bald cypress on the Atlantic Coast and the highest concentration of bald eagles in the northeast United States.
Its watershed is the winter home and resting place for a wide variety of waterfowl, including black ducks, canvasbacks, teals and tundra swans. These same wetlands provide an excellent environment for rare plants such as the seaside alder and the spreading pogonia orchid, Parker's pipewort, wild lupine, box huckleberry, reindeer moss and pitcher plant.
Recognizing the significance of the river, officials from Delaware and Maryland last year committed to jointly work to protect it. Part of that agreement included plans to develop a Nanticoke River Water Trail that would become part of the National Park Service's Gateways Network and, eventually, a part of the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail.
Despite some disturbing trends in agriculture and development, the river has retained many of the physical and biological characteristics that were once common to many of the Bay's tributaries, and documented by Capt. John Smith in 1608.
It is the least developed major river valley in Maryland and has the longest unbroken pine forest on the Delmarva Peninsula.
Add extensive fresh and saltwater tidal marshes to the picture (including more than one-third of all tidal marshes remaining in Maryland) and it becomes a treasure trove of the rare and the beautiful.
The river's physical characteristics and plant life vary considerably, from narrow, canopied creeks in the north to wide expanses of marsh grasses in the south. Within those boundaries are rare and unique ecosystems like the xeric sand dunes on the eastern side of the upper and middle river and the bog near Galestown, MD
Characteristic of the upper reaches of the Nanticoke watershed, in the Delaware wetlands, are small meandering creeks and the ponds with majestic stands of bald cypress. From Seaford, DE to the confluence of the Nanticoke with Marshyhope Creek, nearly 8,000 acres of forested swamps line the river corridor.
Trap Pond State Park near Laurel, DE, offers camping and contains 2,850 acres of recreational opportunities while the adjacent Trussum Pond has an exceptional stand of bald cypress. James Branch Nature Preserve, downstream from Trap and Trussum Ponds, features some of the largest bald cypress trees in the Nanticoke watershed. It is accessible by canoe and kayak, but can be tough going, especially in times of low water flow.
The middle portion of the river harbors freshwater tidal marshes, which are the most diverse and productive wetland type. These wetlands are loaded with the showy hibiscus flower, pickerelweed, and an assortment of colorful flowering plants.
Throughout the upper and middle sections of the river, it's not uncommon to encounter foxes, otter, deer, wading and shore birds, eagles, osprey and an array of songbirds.
While much of the river corridor looks like it might have 400 years ago, several small towns have grown along the river's banks over the last few centuries and are worth a visit. Bethel, DE, with its Victorian and Italianate architecture is located on the north bank of the Broad Creek, near Laurel. The entire town is on the National Historic Register. Founded in the late 1700s, it was a prosperous shipbuilding community in the 1800s and many of the homes were build by ship carpenters. The Victory Chimes, a famous Chesapeake Bay three-masted ram, was built there in 1900 and is still carries passengers in coastal Maine waters.
Sharptown and Vienna, Maryland located about 5 miles from each other by water, were also prosperous shipbuilding and commercial centers in the 18th and 19th centuries. Both towns provide boat ramps to access the river for skiff or paddle craft and have numerous creeks nearby to explore.
A comprehensive visitors center is being planned near the river in Vienna. It will interpret the lives of Native Americans, English explorers and settlers as well as the more recent natural and human history of the river.
Downstream from Vienna, the river widens and is bordered by tidal marshes that stretch to the horizon. Barren Creek, below Vienna, is rimmed by farmland, forest and marsh grasses as it meanders closer to the river. It is accessible by boat ramp near the town of Mardela Springs.
Farther down the river are Quantico, Tyaskin and Wetipquin Creeks on the Eastern side. Tyaskin and Wetipquin Creeks are accessible by the boat ramp near the village of Tyaskin on Nanticoke Road. The big stretches of marshland from Savannah Lake south to Tangier Sound are reachable via skiff from the boat ramp at Bivalve, MD
As the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historical Trail is further developed, access to the Nanticoke and its tributaries will undoubtedly increase. That's not a bad thing for a river whose name translates from the indigenous language, "those who ply the tidal stream."
The Nanticoke Water Trail
The water trail is still under development, but access is available at a variety of public launch sites. Hours of operation vary; consult individual parks for current information when planning a trip. Some public launch sites charge seasonal fees.
Much of the recreational boat traffic on the river originates in the Seaford, DE, area and heads south. Two boat launch sites-Phillips Landing and Seaford-provide year-round direct access to the Nanticoke River. Each has multiple ramps, portable toilets and parking. A single, soft landing is located at the Seaford Canoe Launch. A floating ramp for access and temporary dockage is available at the Seaford River Walk.
Fishing access is located at the River Walk, River Park and Phillips Landing. Picnic facilities are located at River Park, Phillips Landing and Blades Marina.
Shared-use trails for hikers and equestrians are located in the Nanticoke Wildlife Area.
For details about the Nanticoke or other sites in the Chesapeake Bay Gateways Network, visit www.baygateways.net.
