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Scalloped edges created by split-rail fencing cast a decidedly colonial atmosphere at George Washington’s Ferry Farm in the heart of Fredericksburg, VA. On a blustery day in early March, the fence gives way to the pale yellow hues of dormant fescue grass waving across expansive pastures.
The two-story, brick visitor’s center, a National Historic Landmark, commands center stage. Here, visitors begin their tour, experiencing the ebb and flow of Washington’s formative years spent on the banks of the Rappahannock River.
Wall-sized exhibits reveal what is known about the boyhood days of our nation’s first president, who moved to Ferry Farm at the age of 6. These include a floor plan of the six-room house he lived and studied in, along with journal entries made about the garden, henhouse, pigs and other livestock kept on the farm.
Visitors can read about his interest in mathematics as well as his attention to the moral code of the day. It was his focus on such manners and nuances of etiquette, in fact, that helped Washington overcome the lack of formal education that his older brothers received in England. At some point during his schooling, young George copied “The Rules of Civility” that cemented in his character a code of conduct that served him well at every turn during adulthood.
Washington’s father, Augustine, died when the boy was just 11 years old—a loss that no doubt accelerated George’s maturation and leadership tendencies. Augustine’s extensive land holdings were left to his six sons. George inherited Ferry Farm, which at the time, spanned more than 600 acres. Augustine’s properties on the Potomac—Mount Vernon and Wakefield—went to older brothers Lawrence and Augustine Jr., respectively.
Unlike those estates, Ferry Farm was situated in close proximity to a bustling, mercantile center. A free ferry had operated on the Rappahannock at the edge of the property since 1732, although it was not run by the Washingtons. If anything, evidence suggests it was considered somewhat of a nuisance by the family.
In a rare glimpse at human nature, a letter on display that George wrote in 1749 to Lawrence reveals that land-use disputes of his day weren’t very different from our own:
“Its Reported that Mr Spotswood intends to put down the Ferry that is kept at the Wharf where he now Lives, and that Major Frans Talliaferro intends to petition the Assembly for an Act to have it kept from his House over against my Mother’s Quarter, and right through the very Heart and best of the Land.” George then explains that Talliaferro is requesting the petition to protect the view of his mill—which, George notes, operates a mere three months of the year. “and the great Inconveniency and prejudice it will be to us, hope it will not be granted; besides I do not see where he can Possibly have a Landing Place on his side that will ever be sufficient for a Lawful Landing (by reason of the steepness of the Banks;) I think we suffer enough with the Free Ferry.”
While the response is unknown, scholars agree that Lawrence and his other brothers imparted much wisdom to George and continued to shape his ascent to manhood. Diary entries indicate that the younger Washington shared many genteel interests. He was as comfortable on a dance floor as he was giving chase on horseback.
His affinity for mathematics prepared him for his first career as a surveyor. That job afforded him many adventures and sparked his interest in a military career. In a 1752 letter to Lieutenant Gov. Robert Dinwiddie, Washington sought an appointment to an administrative assignment in Virginia’s Northern Neck region. It was a post recently vacated by his brother Lawrence, who was in poor health.
Dinwiddie responded by granting the young Washington a far more challenging assignment in the Ohio country, which was being overrun by French forces building forts. Washington’s deft handling of an “ultimatum” by the Virginians to the French forces to cease and desist brought him great acclaim and earned him the commission of lieutenant colonel in the Virginia military.
It was about this time that Washington left Ferry Farm. His mother, Mary Ball Washington, continued to live in the Fredericksburg area and he periodically visited the farm until it was sold in 1774 to Dr. Hugh Mercer.
Today, the George Washington’s Fredericksburg Foundation owns 78 acres here, having purchased the land in 1996 to save it from encroaching development. This holding complements another owned by the private foundation, the Georgian-style mansion “Kenmore” located in downtown Fredericksburg.
As part of the Chesapeake Bay Gateways Network, Ferry Farm offers the public a blend of history, education and recreation. Staff members encourage visitors to bring a picnic, which may be enjoyed throughout the grounds.
A roughly one-mile trail takes visitors on a self-guided tour of the property, with a map and stations to interpret what they can no longer directly see, including the fact that some of the earliest known native peoples hunted here. Various archaeological digs have uncovered stone spear points dating as far back as 10,000 years.
Those digs continue to expose the footprints of structures from the Washington era, which were burned for firewood by Union troops who camped throughout the region during the formidable winter of 1862. A small creek bounding the property’s north edge, Medicine Spring, also provided these troops easy access to cross the Rappahannock River into Fredericksburg, according to the record of William Draper of the 36th Massachusetts Infantry.
The trail begins in the demonstration garden, planted with crops representative of the Washington years—between 1738 and 1777. A bountiful array of herbs, as well as grapes, peas, heirloom tomatoes, tobacco and a designated cotton plant are managed by a team of volunteer Master Gardeners.
Across the flat upper terrace, defined by pastures and fallow fields, one of several archaeological digs is in progress. The goal of this summer’s excavation is to uncover the footprint of the 1741 house where Washington lived and studied. The Foundation intends to reconstruct the “Home House” building, as well as many of the furnishings mentioned in Augustine’s will.
At the northern edge of the upper fields, steps lead to a wide lower terrace that skirts the Rappahannock. A walking path parallels the water, providing a view of the cityscape and expansive homes directly across river. A little imagination is needed to contemplate that the Rappahannock was as much as 75–100 feet wider during Washington’s time, when it accommodated large ships making their way to Fredericksburg.
Proceeding south along the river’s edge, the walking path leads through lush wetland vegetation and affords a comfortable view of downstream meanders. Depending on the season, hikers may come across the yellow star-like blossom of Adder’s tongue (also known as trout lily) or catch a glimpse of a painted turtle sunning on a downed limb. The path wanders through several acres of mixed woodland habitat and slowly makes the rise back to the upper terrace along the property’s southern reaches.
Here, a meadow trail is planted in warm-season grasses augmented with wildflowers such as purple coneflower, rubekia, and partridge pea. Bluebird houses have been installed along the path, and a quiet hiker might catch a glimpse of bobwhite quail or other ground nesters along the shaggy, woodland edges. Woodchuck and skunk also frequent the farm, taking advantage of brush piles and the diverse food offerings of woodland, field and stream.
Staff archaeologist Paul Nasca treats visitors to early morning bird walks one Saturday a month, from May through October. Nasca has counted 110 bird species at the farm. These include the Cooper’s hawk and American kestrel, seen during their fall migration, and indigo bunting, common during summer months. He has also observed bald eagles and great blue herons fishing along the water’s edge, as well as wild turkey, white-tailed deer, and both red and gray foxes on the grounds.
While the walking tour, preceded by the visitor center, could be accomplished in a brief two-hour visit, the beauty and grandeur of the plantation are things not to be rushed. It is well worth the time to take in the long view and daydream about the rich tapestry of history that has unfolded here.
Ferry Farm
Ferry Farm is open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, February through December. It is closed on Thanksgiving and Dec. 24, 25 & 31.
Admission is $5 for adults; $3 for ages 6-17. Admission is free for ages 6 and younger. Group rates and season passes are available.
Education programs include discovery workshops for children, bird walks and special events such as Plantation Day in the fall. For a complete list, visit www.ferryfarm.org.
Ferry Farm is located just east of downtown Fredericksburg on Virginia Route 3, or 268 Kings Highway, in Stafford County.
Directions
From Points North: From Interstate 95, take Exit 133 heading East on U.S. Route 17. Pass several strip malls, then drive down a long hill. Get into the left lane. At the bottom of the hill, continue straight through the intersection. After traveling approximately 1.5 miles, turn right on Chatham Heights Road until it turns into Virginia Route 3 Business East. Turn left onto Route 3 East and continue to the Ferry Road intersection. The entrance is about 1/10 mile past Ferry Road on the right.
From Richmond and Points South: From Interstate 95, take Exit 130 heading east on Virginia Route 3. Pass several strip malls, then drive down a long hill. At the bottom of the hill, turn left on Virginia Route 3 Business (William Street). Follow William Street through downtown Fredericksburg, crossing over the Rappahannock River. Get in the right lane after crossing the bridge. Continue following Route 3 Business East to the intersection of Ferry Road. The entrance is about 1/10 mile past Ferry Road on the right.
For information about Ferry Farm, visit www.ferryfarm.org or call 540-370-0732.
